WWF

In the middle of the Bering Sea, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, two ships cross paths. Once again I have a ship on radar right at the end of my watch. This vessel is using the new AIS, or automated identification system, as does the Explorer. AIS lets other vessels know who you are and can also give information on the current routing and even purpose of the vessel. This one is a large commercial trawler heading north, over 200 feet long and very modern- the Starbound.

The winds have picked up overnight and the weather map shows we are heading into a small gale as a low pressure system slides up the Bering. This is very expected weather for this area in September. The good news is that the winds will be favourable for sailing and we are soon able to set the main and Genoa without losing any boat speed. The bad news is that the ride will be rough for at least the next 36 hours.

South to Alaska! We head out into a beautifully calm Gulf of Anadyr and the current is going our way, giving us a small boost in speed. This is a perfect way to start our trip across the Bering Sea. Our planned route will take us just south of St Mathew Island and along the edge of the continental shelf that separates Russia from Alaska.

The wind and seas ease as we approach Anadyr. We pick up a local pilot as we enter the long bay that leads to the city. He’s a friendly retired captain who spent 20 years in charge of big ships along Russia’s eastern and northern coasts. Anders takes the wheel so I go down and cook up a hearty brunch of potatoes, eggs, and a mystery ham-like product we picked up in Pevek. It actually turns out to be very good and the pilot happily shares our meal. I wish I could speak Russian so I could truly visit with this interesting man.

As we cross the Gulf of Anadyr, my mind wanders back to the where it started. So what of the polar bear and the loss of sea ice? What can you or I do as individuals to really make a difference? Global climate change is such a huge and complex problem, is the situation hopeless?

Life at 20 degrees … I fell asleep last night to a boat pitching against a head wind – raising me up and then dropping me in my bunk. Luckily for me, I am very good at sleeping! I awoke this morning curled comfortably on the wall of my berth.

The surrounding landscape is mountainous and beautiful. New snow covers the higher elevation in what is called “termination dust” back home in Anchorage. I mix up some excellent Swedish hot chocolate to keep warm while I pass the time in the cool, quiet wheelhouse.

Our local climate has changed dramatically in the past day. The sea temperature is now above 6 C. We have turned the corner this morning and are now in the Bering Strait, heading south. The one thing we should have seen much more of this trip was summer sea ice, but other than the occasional patch of drift ice encountered, the main pack is far to our north. We are approaching the annual sea ice minimum, generally around mid September, and I will be interested to see if the winds we’ve experienced change the final outcome. The last report I heard anticipated significant loss, but likely not another record year as in 2007.

We arrive at the village of Vankarem at midday. This is a traditional Chukchi settlement of about 200 people and is reminiscent of the Alaskan villages I have visited. A cluster of neat one story homes sit together near the shore with boats pulled up on the tundra and fishing nets stretched in the water.

The boat is moving so slowly and in calm waters as I take my watch with Anders. Ryrkaipiy is in sight, but it is still dark and too early to approach, so we reduce speed to a mere 2 knots and make a very gradual arrival. From a distance we begin to see the tell tale signs of a former military base- abandoned structures and debris. In the middle of this however, is what appears to be well maintained and colourfully painted buildings.